Project Warm and Soft Serger Jacket

By Diane Kron

Skill Level: Intermediate  

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Cuddle up in luxury and classic style by creating this warm and cozy jacket with your serger! Use cuddle fabric for an on-trend coat that will look fashionable when doing errands or going out on a date. And when someone asks how you made that jacket, the answer is easy: Serged It!

Materials:

Tools:

Steps:

  1. General directions: In this project you will use both the Baby Lock serger and sewing machine as directed.

    1. In some situations both machines will be used to create seams.

    2. All seam allowances will be 5/8”.

    3. Cuddle Fleece is fluffy and soft – and when you cut it that fluffiness can go everywhere! Have a vacuum cleaner close by to clean up the floating fibers.

  2. Cut the sections for the View D of the jacket.

    1. Since there is a nap to this fabric, be sure that the pattern pieces are going in the same directions.

    2. In this project the pockets were not added.

    3. Read the pattern directions before you begin.

  3. Set up the Baby Lock serger for a 4-Thread Overlock Stitch.

    1. With this stitch you will only use the needles 01 and 02.

    2. Thread the machine. Set the length to 2.5.Set the Width to 7.5

    3. Set the Stitch Selector to A. Set the Wave Selector to Overlock. Blade should be in the up position.

  4. Set up the Baby Lock sewing machine for straight stitch sewing.

  5. Thread the machine with a Madeira (black) Cotona thread on the top and in the bobbin.

  6. Follow Step 1 on the pattern guide sheet while using the sewing machine to place the reinforcing stitches.

  7. Use the Serger to serge the back on the neck area. Before you serge this seam, do a test to verify the settings on the serger are good.

    1. Your settings may vary, based on the fabric that you are using. I changed the Differential feed setting to .08.

    2. Your fabric may slip and slide - changing the differential feed setting the feed dogs will pull the fabric at a different speed from the top fabric.

    3. The goal is to make the two fabrics move at the same speed. I also adjusted the pressure on the presser foot.

    4. Rotate the knob counter-clockwise to loosen the pressure on the presser foot.

    5. After you have made all of the adjustments; and the fabric moves as one for your test go ahead and serge the neck seam.

  8. Tip: Attach Wonder Clips along the seam line to hold the edges together. Remove the clips as you serge.

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  9. Serge the back seam using the same settings on the serger.

  10. Follow steps 4 and 5. For these two steps I used the sewing machine to stitch a 5/8” seam.

  11. Use the serger to finish off the edges using the serger while using the same settings as in the first couple of steps.

  12. Cut off 6” from the lower edge on the two sleeves.

  13. Use the one of the cut off sections as your guide to cut out two sections from the Luxe Cuddle™ Charcoal Fringe that has the same width but 12” long.

  14. With right sides together pin the two sections to the lower end of each of the sleeves.

  15. Use the sewing machine to stitch with a 5/8 seam allowance and end by serging the edges to finish them off.

    1. Press the seam toward the cuff.

  16. Sew the side seams using the sewing machine again using a 5/8” seam allowance. Finish the edges by serging.

  17. Turn the cuff toward the wrong side of the jacket

    1. Turn under 5/8” along the edge of the cuff and pin on the seam line on the cuff.

    2. Hand-sew the cuff to the sleeve.

  18. Use the 4-Thread Overlock Stitch on the serger to finish off the jacket.

  19. Start to serge at the front corner and serge around to the opposite corner and cut the thread.

  20. Lastly sew the collar edge to finish

  21. To secure the threads, thread the tail threads through the large eye on the needle.

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    1. Weave the needle under the serger threads on the backside of the garment and pull through.

    2. Repeat for any other thread tails.

    3. Place a drop of Fray Check on the ends to increase the security of the stitches.

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