Project Serger Activewear Jacket and Pants

By Stephanie Struckmann

Skill Level: Intermediate  

SERGER_LS_ACTIVEWEAR_16x9.JPG
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Get a customized fit for your athletic wear by using your serger to easily create your own outfit. Sergers stitch strectchy fabrics phenomenally! This jacket and pants are easy to make and will give you a perfect fit that won't roll, slide or bunch. You'll want to make all of your leggings and tops and start creating your own me-made wardrobe!

Materials:

  • Madeira Aerolock or Aeroflock Thread
  • Madeira Aerofil Thread
  • Clover Wonder Clips
  • McCall’s Pattern M7482
  • Fabric amount for selected pattern (Shown in this tutorial: Leggings Style D and Jacket Style B)
  • Zipper
  • Snap
  • Basic Sewing Supplies

Tools:

Steps:

  1. Leggings Instructions: You’ll be following the pattern instructions for the most part.

    1. Many steps that you can use your serger to either serge your seam or finish it off!

  2. Cut your pattern according to the instructions. Make sure to mark all the pattern markings so it is easier to line things up.

  3. Set up your serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch with your stitch width at the widest width and your stitch length at 2.5mm.

  4. Before starting step 1 of the pattern, serge along the long edges and the point of the contrasting insets.

    1. Also, serge the long edges and point on each leg (front and back) where the inset will be stitched too.

    2. Clip the inverted corner as shown below on each leg piece (front and back) and gently open/stretch it out to create a straight line as you are serging (so, you don’t have to pivot).

    3. Try not to clip off any fabric for all of the above pieces.

  5. Then, go to the very first pattern step for leggings D, where you stitch the outer seam at the lower leg.

    1. Use the 4-thread overlock stitch. “Pin” your seam together with Wonder Clips.

    2. Measure over 5/8” from the left needle of your serger to find where you’ll line up your raw seam allowance.

    3. You’ll be cutting off approximately ¼” as you serge. Serge this short seam.

  6. Now, stitch the side insets (the Y seam) into each leg.

    1. You’ll want to stitch this in using a stretch stitch and a 5/8” seam on your sewing machine.

  7. Serge the inseams of each leg.

  8. Serge the crotch seam. You might also reinforce with the sewing machine stretch stitch.

  9. Serge the center back seam of the waistband.

    1. Then, fold the waistband in half on itself.

    2. As the pattern shows, use the stretch stitch on your sewing machine on the lower raw edges to hold the waistband inside and outside together making stitching it to the pants more manageable.

  10. Then, matching all markings (center front, back, and sides) of the waistband to the upper pant edge, stretch the waistband to fit and use Wonder Clips to “pin” it in place.

    1. Somewhere along the edge of these 3 layers, notch out a ¼” of seam allowance for about two inches.

    2. This will allow you to get started better with the serger when stitching in the round.

    3. Insert the notched-out fabric under the foot and lined up with the blade.

    4. Stretch the waistband just to fit the pant as you stitch, keeping all layers aligned, stitching around the entire waistband edge, cutting off about a ¼” as you serge.

  11. Try on the leggings and take them in and mark the correct hem as necessary (cut off some of the hem if necessary, leaving a 1” hem allowance).

    1. Then, serge along the raw edge of each hem allowance (try not to cut any off).

    2. Press up 1” and stitch in place with a twin needle, zig-zag or stretch stitch on the sewing machine.

  12. Jacket Instructions: Cut your pattern according to the instructions. Make sure to mark all the pattern markings so it is easier to line things up.

  13. Stay stitch as the pattern recommends.

  14. Set up your serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch with your stitch width at the widest width and your stitch length at 2.5mm.

  15. Steps you’ll want to use your sewing machine for – rolled hems, leg hems, and the zipper.

  16. In Pattern Step 1 for Jacket Style B (sewing the side and shoulder seams), use the serger!

    1. Line up the raw seam allowance with the 5/8” mark, cutting about a ¼” off (as shown above in the leggings instructions).

    2. If you are not using the cording foot to serge your zipper in, you’ll want to serge.

    3. Serge along the edge of both sides of the opening where the zipper will be inserted (try not to serge any fabric off).

    4. See step above in the leggings instructions in this tutorial to see how to notch and stitch the angle.

  17. Serge the center seam for the hood, cutting about a ¼” off.

    1. Then, serge along the edge of the hood opening to finish off the raw edge (try not to cut any off).

    2. Use this serged edge as a way to roll the hood hem under twice and stitch in place

    3. Use a straight-stitch (3.0mm stitch length) on your sewing machine (this part of the hood will not stretch and thus, does not need a stretch stitch to hem down).

  18. Do the same for the left opening edge of the hood (as shown in step 5 of the pattern instructions for the hood of the jacket).

  19. Stitch the hood to the jacket using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine.

    1. You can then, notch out a ¼” for about 2” starting at where you had stopped sewing and serge that edge.

    2. We’ll catch the remaining edge at a later step.

  20. Stitch the zipper in with the sewing machine.

    1. Optional Advanced Serger Zipper Insertion: Then, serge your zipper in using the cording foot, widest width, and a 4-thread overlock.

    2. The side with the zipper pull will run right in the groove of the cording foot.

    3. You will have to stop 5” or so short, needles down in the fabric, to move the zipper pull to the backside of the foot and out of the way

    4. It may help to gently remove the foot to make it simpler to move the pull

    5. The tricky part is serging the side with the heavy-duty zipper stop.

    6. You can still use the cording foot, but you’ll need to lift the foot, push the stop back manually with every stitch, and use the handwheel.

    7. Ensure that the needles do not hit the stop!!

  21. Follow step 9 of the pattern to finish the neckline.

  22. Fold in and stitch the seam allowance in below the zipper.

  23. Serge along the edges of the pocket (trying not to cut any fabric off).

    1. Fold in the edges and sew on the sleeve as shown in the pattern, with a twin needle, zig-zag, or stretch stitch.

  24. Next, serge the sleeve seams with a 5/8” seam allowance (cutting about a ¼” off).

  25. Stitch your sleeves to the jacket.

  26. Prep the cuffs according to your pattern instructions.

  27. Try on the jacket and adjust the hem, cutting off excess fabric if necessary (leaving a 5/8” seam allowance).

  28. Try on the detached cuffs, as well, to make sure the length will be good when the 2 are stitched together with a 5/8” seam allowance.

  29. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeve, using a stretch stitch.

  30. Serge along the edges of the fabric of the lower hem of the jacket (trying not to clip any fabric off).

  31. Fold hem up and stitch in place with a twin needle, zig-zag or stretch stitch.

  32. Add your snap and you are done!

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