Cuddle up in luxury and classic style by creating this warm and cozy jacket with your Baby Lock serger! Use Cuddle® fabric for an on-trend coat that will look fashionable when doing errands or going out on a date. And when someone asks how you made that jacket the answer is easy: Serged It!
Materials:
- Luxe Cuddle® Black Marble from Shannon Fabrics
- Luxe Cuddle® Charcoal Fringe from Shannon Fabrics for the cuffs
- Madeira® black serger thread
- Madeira black Cotona threads
- Fray Check™
- Wonder Clips™
- Large eyed needle
- Basic Sewing Supplies
Tools:
Steps:
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General directions: In this project you will use both the Baby Lock serger and sewing machine as directed.
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In some situations both machines will be used to create seams.
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All seam allowances will be 5/8”.
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Cuddle Fleece is fluffy and soft – and when you cut it that fluffiness can go everywhere! Have a vacuum cleaner close by to clean up the floating fibers.
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Cut the sections for the View D of the jacket.
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Since there is a nap to this fabric be sure that the pattern pieces are going in the same directions.
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In this project the pockets were not added.
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Read the pattern directions before you begin.
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Set up the Baby Lock serger for a 4-Thread Overlock Stitch.
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With this stitch you will only use the needles 01 and 02.
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Thread the machine. Set the length to 2.5.Set the Width to 7.5
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Set the Stitch Selector to A. Set the Wave Selector to Overlock. Blade should be in the up position.
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Set up the Baby Lock sewing machine for straight stitch sewing.
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Thread the machine with a Madeira (black) Cotona thread on the top and in the bobbin.
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Follow Step 1 on the pattern guide sheet while using the sewing machine to place the reinforcing stitches.
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Use the Serger to serge the back on the neck area. Before you serge this seam do a test to verify the settings on the serger are good.
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Your settings may vary based on the fabric that you are using. I changed the Differential feed setting to .08.
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Your fabric may slip and slide - changing the differential feed setting the feed dogs will pull the fabric at a different speed from the top fabric.
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The goal is to make the two fabrics move at the same speed. I also adjusted the pressure on the presser foot.
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Rotate the knob counter-clockwise to loosen the pressure on the presser foot.
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After you have made all of the adjustments; and the fabric moves as one for your test go ahead and serge the neck seam.
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Tip: Attach Wonder Clips along the seam line to hold the edges together. Remove the clips as you serge.
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Serge the back seam using the same settings on the serger.
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Follow steps 4 and 5. For these two steps I used the sewing machine to stitch a 5/8” seam.
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Use the serger to finish off the edges using the serger while using the same settings as in the first couple of steps.
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Cut off 6” from the lower edge on the two sleeves.
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Use the one of the cut off sections as your guide to cut out two sections from the Luxe Cuddle™ Charcoal Fringe that has the same width but 12” long.
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With right sides together pin the two sections to the lower end of each of the sleeves.
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Use the sewing machine to stitch with a 5/8 seam allowance and end by serging the edges to finish them off.
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Press the seam toward the cuff.
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Sew the side seams using the sewing machine again using a 5/8” seam allowance. Finish the edges by serging.
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Turn the cuff toward the wrong side of the jacket
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Turn under 5/8” along the edge of the cuff and pin on the seam line on the cuff.
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Hand-sew the cuff to the sleeve.
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Use the 4-Thread Overlock Stitch on the serger to finish off the jacket.
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Start to serge at the front corner and serge around to the opposite corner and cut the thread.
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Lastly sew the collar edge to finish
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To secure the threads thread the tail threads through the large eye on the needle.
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Weave the needle under the serger threads on the backside of the garment and pull through.
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Repeat for any other thread tails.
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Place a drop of Fray Check on the ends to increase the security of the stitches.
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