Simple serger techniques can change a plain sundress into a special one-of-a-kind sundress. Your serger pin-tuck foot makes this easy elastic smocked bodice and your serger belt loop binder turns a strip of fabric into simple shoulder straps. Add silk flowers to make your little girl a hit at any party. Download printable instructions.
Materials:
- Madeira® Aerolock premium serger thread
- McCall’s Pattern M5613 – view C (or similar pattern)
- Spray of silk flowers
- Elastic thread (or very thin elastic cording for smocking the bodice)
Tools:
- Baby Lock serger
- Baby Lock Sewing Machine
- BLE8-S11 (serger wide belt loop binder presser foot)
- BLE8-PTF (serger pin-tuck foot with cord guide)
Steps:
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Cut pattern pieces for view C:
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Cut piece 9 according to pattern instructions.
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Cut pieces 7 and 8 on the bias for extra ease and smocking and cut twice the width and length for the size recommendation.
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Pattern pieces for the size 6 dress measures 14-3/4” x 3-1/4”; therefore for this dress size cut the pieces on the bias 29-1/2” x 6-1/2”.
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Instructions for dress straps:
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Cut pattern piece 9.
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Set up your serger with the wide belt loop binder following instructions included with the wide belt loop binder.
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With fabric right side up sew the dress straps in the belt loop binder according to instruction sheet in the binder.
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Cut the finished strap the length of the dress pattern.
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Set straps aside to attach to dress when pattern indicates.
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Instructions for floral skirt:
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Cut pattern piece 9. Cut 2 in solid colored skirt fabric as instructed in pattern. Cut 2 in organza.
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Set up your Sewing Machine. Change to the “N” presser foot. Select a flower or star decorative stitch.
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Flower placement:
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Separate the spray of silk flowers into individual petals.
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On the underside of the organza randomly place and pin the petals right side against the organza fabric.
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Then place a small piece of tear away stabilizer behind the petal.
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Sewing the petals to the skirt:
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Position the stabilizer petal organza sandwich on the machine with the organza side up.
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Place the center of the petal in front of presser foot.
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Stitch a single pattern repeat of the flower or star stitch chosen to attach the petal to the organza.
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Carefully remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
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Finish stitching the petals randomly on the underside of the organza in the same manner as explained for the first petal.
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Hem organza with rolled hem on your Baby Lock serger.
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Hem underskirt with double 1” hem.
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Assemble the skirt:
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With right side up on both place organza and underskirt together with flowers between layers.
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Match side seams of underskirt and organza.
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Stitch ½” in from top edge to secure both skirt layers together.
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Finish the waist of the skirt with a 3-thread overlock stitch.
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Gather the skirt at the waistline.
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Set skirt aside to attach to bodice when instructed by pattern.
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The bodice pattern pieces for the size 6 dress measures 14-3/4” x 3-1/4”; therefore for this dress size cut the pieces on the bias 29-1/2” x 6-1/2”.
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Set your serger for a narrow rolled hem and finish the top and bottom edge with the same color thread as the underskirt
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On the wrong side of the fabric mark elastic placement every 3/8 inch (10mm) at the side seams of the bodice front and back.
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Within the seam allowance secure the elastic thread with a short (1.0mm) stitch length on your sewing machine.
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Rethread your Evolution serger to a narrow cover stitch (needles C2 and C3) following instructions in the operation manual.
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Attach the pintuck foot and cord guide according to instructions with foot.
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Thread white thread in the chain stitch looper
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Thread colored thread to match the flowers in each needle.
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Thread the long end of the first elastic in the cord guide.
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With the right side up place fabric under the pintuck foot with the first row of elastic under the channel of the foot and between the C2 and C3 needles.
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Stitch the cover stitch slowly over the elastic thread. The cord guide will position the elastic through the center of the cover stitch.
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Stitch each row until the bodice is complete.
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Gently pull the loose ends of the elastic until you have the desired gathering for the smocked bodice
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Secure the loose ends within the seam allowance
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Sew 5/8” seam allowance attaching the front to back bodice
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Flatten seam and sew a narrow zigzag of 2.5mm wide and 1.5mm long down the outside of the bodice side seams.
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Trim excess seam allowance and elastic ends.
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Top stitch seam on outside of the bodice side seams with a 3.5mm wide and 1.5mm zigzag.
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Set your completed bodice aside till time to assemble your dress.
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Assemble follow pattern instructions to attach the straps to the bodice.
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To attach the skirt to the bodice pin the right side of the gathered skirt to the underside of the bodice matching the side seams.
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The gathered seam of the skirt should be 3/8” from the lowest edge of the bodice.
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Set up your serger for a cover stitch (needles C2 and C3).
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Stitch one more row of narrow cover stitch at the waistline of the dress to attach the skirt to the bodice.