Aug 1, 2023
serger, sewing
intermediate

Serger Jumpsuit

Supplies + -

* Baby Lock Sewing Machine
* Baby Lock Serger
* 1 spool of sewing thread to match
* 4 spools of serger thread to match
* Dressmaking Amóre Zia Sweater & Jade Pants Patterns https://dressmakingamore.com/products/ziajadepatternbundle
* Fabric and notions requirements for each pattern
* ¼” clear elastic for shoulder seams
* Wonder Clips

Additional Options
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Meet your perfect match! Cozy up to this casual half zip top and matching pant set that you can create on your Baby Lock serger. Using knit fabric? No problem! Your serger will handle the seams on this project so quickly, easily, and professionally!

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERN WITH ADDITIONAL PHOTOS.

Instructions 

The pattern instructions for each of these patterns by Dressmaking Amóre are very detailed and walk you through sewing the garment step by step. You’ll want to follow her pattern instructions (she has a video too)! I have a few tips to add as you serge with your Baby Lock Serger!


1. For the pants and top, use a 4-thread Overlock stitch with a 2.5-3mm stitch length. The pattern includes a 3/8” seam allowance. You can set your cutting blade at the desired width from M to 7.5mm. Use a measuring gauge to make sure you know where to line your fabric edge up. The image below is from an 8-thread serger, but you can get the idea. You’ll want the amount that you cut off + the width of your seam allowance after cutting to equal 3/8”. Notice that the Overlock 1 needle (the left needle) is exactly 3/8” away from the edge of the needle plate (indicated by the red arrows). So, I lined the edge of my fabric up with the edge of the needle plate, cutting about 1/8” off as I stitched, leaving a ¼” seam allowance. 
2. Serge any edges and seams that you can in lieu of stitching them on the sewing machine. All inseams and side seams, pocket seams (for the pants), the raw edges of the facing (for the top: serge the 2 straight shoulder edges and the entire “u” shape before assembling), sleeve seams (as well as the armhole seams), and hem allowances.
3. Look into using Wonder Clips instead of pins so you don’t risk serging into a pin, which is never a good thing for the cutting blades on your serger.
4. I highly recommend serging clear elastic into the shoulder seams for added stability. Many of the General Purpose feet on Baby Lock Sergers include slots where you can insert ¼” tapes within to add support to a seam. For any knit top, it is a great idea to add some support in the form of clear elastic to those shoulder seams to prevent warping over time. Take a look at the shoulder seams in some of your ready-made knit tops/dresses. Chances are, you’ll find clear elastic within the serged seam! (You’ll also find it in seams where there is gathering in a knit garment.)
It’s really easy to replicate the same thing if your standard serger foot has tape guides. Before placing the foot on the machine, simply insert the ¼” clear elastic into the tape guide in line with your Overlock needles. Pull the tape under and straight back until it extends past the back of the foot. Ease the foot onto the machine, realigning the tape under the Overlock needles. With your machine set up for a 4-thread Overlock Stitch, serge the shoulder seams. As you go, the clear elastic will stitch into place. This gives the shoulder seam a nice bounce back any time it’s stretched or will help keep its shape while stored on a hanger.
5. Lastly, for the pant hem, you may consider using Heat and Bond Soft Stretch along the hem allowance. This again helps the hem to keep its shape and gives it stability as you stitch the knit fabric with your sewing machine or cover stitch machine. Follow the package instructions to adhere it to the hem allowance and then to fold it up and press it again.

Supplies

* Baby Lock Sewing Machine
* Baby Lock Serger
* 1 spool of sewing thread to match
* 4 spools of serger thread to match
* Dressmaking Amóre Zia Sweater & Jade Pants Patterns https://dressmakingamore.com/products/ziajadepatternbundle
* Fabric and notions requirements for each pattern
* ¼” clear elastic for shoulder seams
* Wonder Clips

Additional Options
Print
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