In this article, we’ll explore the basic single-point and double-point (fish-eye) darts, and how to sew them successfully.

Darts are one of a myriad of ways of “controlling fullness”. Simply stated, darts help to transform an otherwise shapeless textile into a garment with contours.

Darts have the following elements:

  • Legs (the dashed sewing lines)
  • Vanishing point (the point where the legs converge)

There are two basic types of darts:

  • Single point
  • Double point/Fish-eye

Classically, single point darts are found at and above the waist on the bodice and/or where it joins to at and below the waist on the skirt or trouser. They are always going to start at the edge of the fabric. Fish-eye darts are most often found with the “belly” – the largest part of the dart – at the waistline and radiate both up and down, helping to define the waistline.They most often are placed in a garment away from an edge. However, they can also start at the edge of the fabric.

The widest part of the dart intake is the place where the most fabric is taken in – for instance, at the waist. They usually narrow as they come toward full shapes (bust, hips, seat). Most usually, darts drop out before they reach the top of any mound.

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